Swells neon sign and Old Style sign

Sometimes, you just want a bar. A beer. And a burger. Sports on TV. We got you. And if you happen to be with someone who would like a grain bowl or salad and a glass of wine, we’ve got you too.

Leroy’s Hot Stuff, Porter

Known for Mexican food and live bands, Leroy’s attracts a civilized sort of biker, among others. It’s a good stop going to/from Chicago. Weekly beer specials are insanely cheap. We love breakfast here (chilaquiles!)

Joe & Freddy’s in the Pines

A few years ago, Nicole Bissonnette and her partner, Michael Ganz, bought the former Joe’s, made the place non-smoking, took everything out of the place, cleaned it and put it back (not a hint of smoke remains). There’s all sorts of fun memorbilia, plus a section with the history of nearby Beverly Shores, a stuffed squirrel wearing a Santa hat (horrifying or funny, depending), clamshell phone booth, Tilt-a-Whirl (photo opp!) and a classic gas pump.

Don’t let the roadside tavern exterior fool you. It says “gourmet’ on the sign out front, and you might not believe it, but Bissonnette is also the owner and chef at Fish Camp in Michigan City, so the food is quite good. (She was a co-owner of the beloved Bartlett’s in Beverly Shores as well.) The tavern-style pizza rivals Swells’ (see below), but the specials really shine as the chef focuses on a different cuisine weekdays: Asian and Thai bowls, Mexican fare, smoked brisket and ribs. My favorite is the walleye piccata and fresh asparagus. You’ll even find a cauliflower rice bowl and flourless chocolate cake.

Swell’s: A Dive Bar on 12 in Michigan City

Neither a dive bar ironically nor in reality (really, what sort of dive bar has Veuve Clicquot and a cherry arugula salad on the menu?), Swell’s is nonetheless a straightforward tavern, with sports on TV and a no-frills atmosphere. When the neon sign appeared on the building before it opened a few years ago, I was curious: Was this a movie set? A real place? There was no social media and I could find no mention of the place or its plans. Happily, when it opened it revealed itself to be a real neighborhood bar.

The tavern-style pizza (thin crust, cut in squares) is excellent, I’d say the best around; I loved the deep-dish as well. Friends say the Detroit-style and hand-tossed pizza is also terrific. It’s the sort of place you take your pickleball pals after a few hours of matches.

Ritz Klub, Michigan City

OK, we’re cheating a bit here, as Ritz is in downtown Michigan City and as such is not really roadside. But classic bar it is, and it has what my pal Jeff Ruby, former chief dining critic for Chicago magazine, calls the best burger in the area. Mr. Diva, not now and never having been a dining critic, nonetheless agrees. Ritz Klub was established in 1890; in the 1940s new owners changed the name to the Ritz Klub. Nice outdoor patio, as well.


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One response to “The best roadside taverns in The Dunes and Michiana”

  1. almost823712f3dd Avatar
    almost823712f3dd

    Big fan of Joe and Freddy’s here, which I think we first visited after seeing another of your posts about it.

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